What is the byssus (sea silk)?

Byssus is a filament secreted by some species of bivalves with the aim of anchoring themselves to various substrates, such as sand or rocks.

Pinna nobilis, an endemic species of the Mediterranean that is critically endangered and protected under the Habitats Directive 92/43/EEC for Conservation of Natural Habitats and of Wild Fauna and Flora, is the most well-known mollusk for producing byssus. The collection, killing, possession, commercialization, and even display of this mollusk and its parts are prohibited.

Byssus has been used for its exceptional natural luster and unique golden hues since ancient times as a highly prized fiber for textiles. For further information, please visit https://muschelseide.ch/it/

Pinna nobilis
Pinna nobilis
Atrina pectinata
Atrina pectinata

In 2007, while researching the history of weaving in the places where my ancestors originated, I discovered sea silk (byssus). My paternal grandfather and his parents were from Sant’Antioco, a place in Sulcis (south wes Sardinia – Italy) famous for the production of this valuable material thanks to the school of weaving founded in the 1920s by the master Italo Diana. Here, I learned the techniques related to sea silk weaving, but since the Pinna nobilis mollusk is protected since 1992, I was unable to continue with its production. I continued to study and recover other ancient skills and techniques, such as vegetable dyeing and linen weaving, which is almost completely disappeared in Sardinia and elsewhere. However, the sea silk has always remained in my heart, and I continue to search for a legal and ethical way to restart its production.

I discover that outside the Mediterranean other molluscs similar to the Pinna nobilis are fished and their byssus is thrown away because it is considered waste material. My goal is to be able to find small quantities, when possible, to keep alive this tradition which risks being lost due to the impossibility of processing the byssus produced by the large Mediterranean mollusc, as happened in the past.
 

In 2017, after many years, I succeed in my aim and thanks to the byssus filaments produced by the oceanic mollusc Atrina pectinata, I can finally start transforming the brown and tangled strands of raw byssus into the precious sea silk again. In fact, I am aware of all the steps of this delicate and difficult process: from washing to carding and cleaning the curls, passing through the lightening and, finally, the spinning and weaving of the impalpable golden filaments.